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Book:	Practical Conservation
Chapter:	Gardening for Birds
Section:	How to Create a Bird Garden
Metadata:	Details	Buy this book

In planning a bird garden it is necessary to consider the needs of birds. These may be stated simply as shelter, food, water and nesting sites.

Where

A bird garden should be situated in an area which is relatively quiet and peaceful, away from the playground if possible. It should be visible from at least some classroom windows with an open mown grass area facing the building and various shrubs behind to give a screen with an upward gradation in height from front to back. There should be stickers on windows so that birds don't fly into them.

1. Shelter

Birds need cover to escape predators, to afford protection against wind and rain and snow, to roost and to build their nests in. You can provide this cover by planting dense, wide hedgerows, together with a variety of trees of different heights. However, on sites of limited dimensions good sources of cover can be achieved by planting small groups of shrubs to form thickets. A list of plants suitable for planting in a bird garden is given in this section. Remember, thorny plants will give protection from predators while evergreens will afford some cover during the cold, wet months of winter.

2. Food

'Natural' food in the form of seeds, fruits and insects will be made available to the birds if you plant some of the trees and shrubs from the list below. Native trees are often the best as they are more abundant in insect life and their fruits are preferred by birds. Include a 'dead wood pile' a collection of half rotted logs in your garden to provide a harbour for insects and so plentiful supply of food for insect-eating birds. Besides having trees you should also have an open area of mown grass as some birds such as blackbirds and thrushes prefer to feed in these surroundings.

During very cold and frosty weather and when the ground is covered in snow, natural food sources are very scarce. At these times artificial foods such as kitchen scraps are most welcome. Even clearing a patch of snow near the bird table can help birds find insects and spiders. Also food with high moisture content provides insulation for birds. However, it is very important that feeding is carried out every day without fail because birds quickly become dependent on this food and a break in supply could mean death to a small bird. Suitable artificial foods should be given only during the winter i.e. November to March, never in the spring or summer as some of it may be lethal if fed to nestlings.

Grasses provide food for many seed-eaters e.g. finches, sparrows. Examples include Common Bent and Red Fescue.

Many herbs also provide seed. For example: Cow Parsley, Knapweed, Thistle, Teasel, Docks, Stinging Nettles, Sunflower.

Examples of foods you can put out for birds (November-March)

cheese, cooked potato, cake, wild bird seed, peanuts (not salted), suet, nuts, fresh coconut, fresh fruit, raisins, fat, moist bread, oatmeal, meaty bones, tinned dog food.

Examples of foods which are harmful to birds

salted peanuts, salted meats, dried coconut, dehydrated foods.

The bird table should be erected in such a position that it can be be viewed from classrooms yet is safe from predators such as cats. The design below is easily made and could be tackled in craft class.

Other types of feeder may be suspended from your bird table or hung outside a high window. These include various types of peanut dispensers, lumps of fat and half coconuts all of which are favoured by members of the tit family.

3. Water

Birds need water all year round for both drinking and bathing. Without constant cleaning and repair of torn feathers, the insulating effect of the plumage would be lost and flight would become impossible.

Fresh water for drinking can be provided in a variety of ways. A small container may be placed on the bird table, a bird bath may be erected, or a pond could be created. Whichever method you choose remember that in winter, in freezing temperatures, the provision of fresh clean water is a life-saver for many small birds. Drinking water should be checked every day in winter, the ice removed and fresh water added.

4. Nest boxes

If no natural nesting sites are available or if you wish to increase the number of nesting sites, you can provide nest boxes. These boxes are available from the RSPB but a greater involvement can be achieved if children make them in craft classes.

To make a nest box you will need a piece of 150mm 'deal' plank or a sheet of marine quality ply, screws if possible or galvanised nails, a strip of rubber as a hinge and a fastener to close the lid. Do not use treated or painted wood as the chemicals can be toxic to the young birds.

The diameter of the hole in the closed box will determine the type of bird likely to inhabit it:

25mm diameter small birds such as blue tits.

27mm diameter (draw round a 10 pence piece) a great tit.

30mm diameter sparrow, starling.

50mm diameter jackdaw.

Cut the holes with an appropriate size drill bit or fretsaw about 25mm from the top edge of the front. If a box is modified and a slit is made instead of a hole then other species such as robins, flycatchers and wagtails are the most likely inhabitants.
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Nest boxes should be sited so that they are not totally exposed to prevailing winds, rain and sun (facing NE is best) and they should be out of reach of predators and inquisitive children. Instead of nailing boxes to trees, pass a strip of rubber (old bicycle inner tube or tree tie) round the trunk and nail the ends to either side of the box this prevents damage to the tree. Site boxes away from the bird table and don't crowd too many together many birds are territorial. If boxes are sited near a bird table, feeding should be stopped when birds show an interest in the box.