BTCV Handbooks Online

Book:	How & Why
Chapter:	How to build fences
Section:	Hands-on techniques
Metadata:	Details	Buy this book

Clearing The Fence Line

Make sure the fence line is clear of undergrowth, overhanging vegetation and old fence materials so that you have room to work.

Locate the straining and turning post holes accounting for changes in slope and direction of the fence line.

Digging A Post Hole

Mark out with a spade the size of the hole. The dimension of the hole must be:

a) Wide enough to allow firming up around the post to be carried out.

b) Of sufficient depth (approx 30 % of total post length) to ensure the stability of the post after backfilling.

NB Stone filling only works really well with square posts. If no stone is available use soil tamped down in layers.

Post And Rail Fencing

Nail the rails with galvanized nails driven in at an angle, ensuring the nails are not directly above one another and are set a few centimetres apart.

Working in pairs attach the rails to the posts ensuring rail ends are staggered.

Changes in direction can be made by cutting and sinking in the rails into the post.

Post And Wire Fencing

Dig in straining and turning posts.

Excavate a hole for the posts as instructed opposite.

Cut a slot in the base of the hole to allow for a cross piece (foot) to be attached to the post.

Next to the cross piece place a large stone (heel stone) at the base of the hole. Backfill ensuring tamping in layers.

Attach the struts on opposite side from strain.

Fixing The Line

Between turning points, attach a temporary wire, low own, ensuring it is not too tight and does not catch the ground. This will then guide the siting of the intermediate posts.

Driging In Intermediate Posts

Intermediate posts should be 23m apart for stock fences, about 4m apart for rabbit fences.

Take care to ensure the posts are upright and in line. While two people drive a post in, a third should be checking that it is straight.

When using a drivall be particularly careful that the post is upright and the people using it wear safety helmets.

Straining And Stapling

Strain and staple up the top wire first and work downwards.

Use a measuring stick to get the correct height and spacing of the wires.

Knock down any posts that are too high as you go along. On uneven ground you may have to allow some variation in height and spacing to achieve a smooth line.

The arm on the wire strainer is adequate. Don't add anything to give extra leverage.

Staples should be put in diagonally and only driven home on straining posts. On other posts the wire should be free to move.

To finish off, saw off any minor damage to the posts, nail up splits and ensure cut wire ends are sunk into the posts.

Rabbit Netting, Chain Link and Palings

These need to be supported by a line wire top and bottom, with a centre line on tall sections. Construct the fence as a post and wire fence, then attach the netting and pull it tight by hand. Do not try to strain rabbit netting. Fold back away from area to be protected. The netting should be attached to the line wire by pig rings or similar devices.

Woven Field Netting

Also known as pig netting or ryelock.

This does not usually need to be supported by line wires except on long runs.

Erect the netting once the intermediate posts are in place.

Use a stretcher bar to ensure equal tension in all lines, or use two wire strainers in tandem: strain up and fix the top and bottom wires, then work inwards.

When joining netting overlap it by at least two meshes; don't join it end to end. The use of gripples or joint blocks is also acceptable.

For more information:

On other types of fencing and special uses, refer to Fencing - a practical handbook by E Agate (2001) BTCV

On gates and stiles refer to How to improve access in this pack or Footpaths - a practical handbook by E Agate (2001) BTCV

This information is believed to be correct but does not obviate the need for further enquiries as appropriate.

This is not a comprehensive statement of all safety procedures to ensure the health and safety of all users.

No responsibility is accepted by BTCV for accidents or damage as a result of its use. The information and advice in this leaflet can assist you to gain National Vocational Qualifications in Environmental Conservation with BTCV.