BTCV Handbooks Online

Book:	How & Why
Chapter:	How to dry stone wall
Section:	Hands-on techniques
Metadata:	Details	Buy this book

Stripping out

Sort out the coping stones from the collapsed wall first and place them two to three metres from the wall.

Take out the main stones and put the top ones furthest from the wall. Keep the largest ones nearest the wall to aid building. Leave a gap of about 60cm alongside the wall for working. Keep throughstones safe and separate.

When stripping out a gap step the ends to tie in the new wall.

Batter frames

Batter frames are used to ensure accurate work.
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Set the frame(s) at the end(s) of the section you are working on and run guidelines along the wall. Make sure the lines aren't moved by people working.

Foundations

The foundations or footings should be set in a trench a few centimetres wider than the wall, dug down to a firm base. They could be as little as 3cm up to 30cm deep depending on soil type.

Use the biggest stones, except those that are good for coping, wallheads or throughstones.

Place the long edges into the wall whenever possible.

Stones should be steady and unable to slip. Don't use ones that need wedging. Avoid roundbacked stones that are hard to build on.

Pack between the footings with angular, freedraining hearting stones.

Courses

The wall is built up in horizontal courses (lines of stones of even height) for ease of construction, strength and appearance.

Use the biggest stones in the bottom of the wall and the smallest in the top. This produces a stronger wall and is easier to build.

Try to ensure that each joint in one course is bridged by a stone in the next course.

Place stones level or dipping outwards slightly and where possible with the long edge into the wall.

Hearting stones are important. Use solid angular stones. Place them carefully, almost as you would the face stones. Add hearting stones as you go, keeping them at or just below the level of the face stones.

Make sure people follow the designated batter of the wall. Try to keep the face of the wall smooth - it discourages climbers.

Place stones on the wall - don't drop them and don't hammer on the wall otherwise you will dislodge other stones.
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Throughstones

Throughstones located at regular intervals straddle the wall, holding the two sides together to stop it bellying out and collapsing. They are essential for the wall's strength. They can be slightly longer than the wall's width, but must not be shorter as this makes the wall less secure. Ensure that they pin all the stones below them. How many to use and where to put them depends on the regional style of wall and the type of stone.

Coping

Coping stones straddle the wall in the same way as throughstones, holding the sides together and holding down and protecting the upper courses.

There are many types of coping, so follow the local style as far as possible. Keep the top of the coping even by using a line. Avoid wedging the stones to keep them steady.

Wallheads

The wall head is a pillar which acts like a bookend to hold the wall up. It is the section least well supported and most prone to damage.

Use the largest and most rectangular stones available.
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Slopes

Build in horizontal courses.

Grade the courses so that the biggest stones are near the hillside, but keep the course as level as possible.

Start from the bottom and work uphill.
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Gapping

Remove and sort all the unstable stones so that you have a firm base to work from. Sort the coping stones out first.

Step the ends of the gap so that you can tie in the new wall.

Look at the old wall to see how it was built and try to recreate its style. Use the old stone for rebuilding - don't clean off old moss and vegetation and ensure any additional stone used is of the same type as the original.

For more information:

For regional styles refer to Dry stone walling - a practical handbook
>A Brooks, S Adcock & E Agate (1999) BTCV
>This information is believed to be correct but does not obviate the need for further enquiries as appropriate.

This is not a comprehensive statement of all safety procedures to ensure the health and safety of all users.

No responsibility is accepted by BTCV for accidents or damage as a result of its use. The information and advice in this leaflet can assist you to gain National Vocational Qualifications in Environmental Conservation with BTCV.